Welcome back, skincare lover! Today I’m excited to talk to you about why you need multi-molecular weight hyaluronic acid in your skincare routine.
We all know and love hyaluronic acid, don’t we? But do you know that the molecular weight of your hyaluronic acid can make a big difference to the long-term hydration and wrinkle-smoothing capabilities of your skincare? It’s true!
And in this post I’m going to share everything I know, what the experts say – plus tell you all about some of my favourite multi-molecular weight hyaluronic acid serums so you can try them for yourself.
First, what is hyaluronic acid?
Actually it’s not really an acid at all. According to this study, it’s a group of sugar molecules called polysaccharides found in the skin and joints that can hold many times their own weight in water.
When first isolated, HA behaved like a mild acid; therefore, Meyer named it “hyaluronic acid”.
Hyaluronan: A Simple Polysaccharide with Diverse Biological Functions
The theory is that hyaluronic acid plumps and keeps the skin hydrated, and has an anti-ageing effect by filling out dehydrated skin and wrinkles.
So what on earth is multi-molecular weight hyaluronic acid?
Skincare products containing multiple weights of hyaluronic acid are hugely beneficial to your skin.
In a nutshell: smaller particles penetrate more deeply for longer lasting results. In contrast, larger particles can’t penetrate as deeply, but come with their own special cosmetic benefits for skin, too. So, it’s all about mixing multiple weights of hyaluronic acid in the same product for maximum benefit.
Higher molecular weight hyaluronic acid
The larger particles in higher molecular weight hyaluronic acid sit on top of the skin, forming a film that tightens and has an anti-inflammatory effect, protecting against outside forces. This type of HA locks in hydration and protects skin’s barrier. The effect is only temporary, however, because after cleansing the HA washes away and has no lasting effect.
Benefits:
- Cosmetic tightening and smoothing of the skin
- Protects the skin’s barrier
- Lessens the appearance of wrinkles
Lower molecular weight hyaluronic acid
In contrast, the smaller particles in low molecular weight hyaluronic acid actually have a long term effect on the skin because they penetrate into it, to some degree, restoring moisture for firmer and plumper skin. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid replenishes skin cells to reduce the appearance of fine lines. The smaller the molecule, the greater the penetration.
Benefits:
- Firmer and plumper skin
- Benefits skin by improving the appearance of wrinkles over time
Can you tell me more about the different weights?
Of course. It’s a little complex, but it’s worth noting.
According to London based anti-ageing scientist, Henry Tianus, there are 5 different weights of hyaluronic acid. Its molecules are measured in Dalton.
Starting at less than 6,000 dalton (0.0000000000000000001 gram), ultra low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is the most effective type of HA, but also the most expensive, the least common, and has the most potential for skin irritation and other skin problems. Don’t believe me? Check out this article from Harpers Bizarre.
Next up is super low molecular weight hyaluronic acid with an average molecular weight of less than 50,000 Dalton.
Extra low molecular weight hyaluronic acid comes in at 110,000 Dalton.
Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid jumps up to 1,000,000 Dalton.
Finally, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid weighs in at 1,500,000 Dalton. This type of HA is most frequently found in skincare products.
It’s interesting to note that as a skincare formulator, the most frequent type of HA I come across is high molecular weight. But I have spotted super low molecular weight HA from The Formulary. It’s definitely on my wishlist to make a new serum with this once I’ve used others in my stash. Watch this space for a multi-weight hyaluronic acid serum formula coming your way soon!
Now let’s take a look at the products you can try.
Some hyaluronic acid serums with different weights to try
TRUE Skincare 1% Hyaluronic Acid Complex
Described as a balancing serum perfect for all skin types, this lovely lightweight serum feels very much like a silky water and has very little discernible scent. The serum promises great benefits to the dermis layer – a wonderful boost of moisture plus long-term hydration thanks to the lower weight HA it contains.
Because it’s waterless, the ingredients are very simple – just algae extract, pentylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, hydrolysed sodium hyaluronate, and citric acid. It glides onto my skin and sinks in quickly, with no sticky after-feel.
Definitely a fantastic product to add to your serum collection and a fabulous long-term investment in your skin.
TRUE Skincare 1% Hyaluronic Acid Complex
Buy Now – £14.89 at TRUE Skincare
Balance Me Tri-Molecular Hyaluronic Serum
One of my favourite serums at the moment, and perfect for dry and flaky skins, is Balance Me Tri-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum. It clevely contains triple-weight hyaluronic acid to instantly plump, hydrate and strengthen the skin barrier.
This serum promises to instantly plump, tighten, and visibly smooths fine lines. I’ve found that – as per its product claims – the serum does indeed lock in moisture for all day hydration.
How does it work? Balance Me claim that the lower molecular weight HA works beneath the surface of the skin to replenish skin cells to reduce the appearance of fine lines, while the higher weight HAs provide instant plumping and tightening effects while protecting the skin’s moisture barrier and locking in hydration.
Although it’s recommended for both AM and PM use, I like to use it in the morning, as it has a lovely light refreshing scent from rose, neroli, rose geranium, and bergamot flower oils. It love that this serum also contains botanical extracts of chamomile, aloe vera, and yarrow. My skin is in love with the silky feeling and instant results.
Balance Me Tri-Molecular Hyaluronic Serum
More to try
Other multi molecular weight hyaluronic acid serums I’d like to try.
- The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 – £13.90 at Cult Beauty
- Dermatica Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid + Vit B5 Serum – £15.95 at Dermatica
- NIOD Multi-Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Complex – £45 NIOD
And for when we’re feeling flush:
- Beauty Pie Triple Hyaluronic Acid Lipopeptide Serum – £85/£19 as member at Beauty Pie
- Dr. Barbara Sturm Hyaluronic Acid Serum – £85
Final thoughts
I hope you enjoyed learning about hyaluronic acid with me! It’s so interesting and I hope you’ll be able to try some of my recommendations for multi-weight products to try – your skin will thank you for it.
Have you tried these types of serums? Let me know in the comments! And remember to subscribe to my blog and follow me on Instagram for more.
Happy skin-caring!
